What's that smell? Unfortunately, there's no way to know. Fragrance is considered a trade secret, so companies don't have to tell us what's in it – often dozens or even hundreds of synthetic chemical compounds. Almost half the products in Skin Deep contain the generic term "fragrance," from shampoos and deodorants to lotions and shaving creams. Even "unscented" products may contain masking fragrances, which are chemicals used to cover up the odor of other chemicals.
Some hidden hazards that may be lurking in products that contain synthetic fragrance include:
• Allergens: Fragrances are considered to be among the top five known allergens and are known to both cause and trigger asthma attacks.
• Phthalates: Product tests conducted by Consumer Reports ShopSmart magazine in January 2007 found the phthalates DEP and DEHP (which is banned in Europe) in each of eight popular perfumes tested. In 2002, the "Not Too Pretty" report from some of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics founders revealed phthalates in more than 72 percent of personal care products tested, including fragrance-containing shampoos, deodorants and hair gels. None of the products listed phthalates on the label. Follow-up testing in 2008, published in the report, "A Little Prettier," indicated that some leading companies are now using fewer phthalates than in 2002, though these companies still deny that phthalates may pose a health risk.
• Sensitizers: One in every 50 people may suffer immune system damage from fragrance and become sensitized, according to the EU's Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products. Once sensitized to an ingredient, a person can remain so for a lifetime, enduring allergic reactions with every subsequent exposure.
• Neurotoxins: As far back as 1986, the U.S. National Academy of Sciences identified fragrance ingredients as one of six categories of neurotoxins (chemicals that are toxic to the brain) that should be thoroughly investigated for impacts on human health. However, this research has not been demanded or funded. The FDA has taken no action on a petition submitted to the agency in 1999 requesting fragrance components to be listed on labels.
• Synthetic musks: A 2009 study of Austrian college students found that those who used the most perfume and scented lotion also had the highest levels of synthetic musks, including galaxolide and tonalide, in their blood. These synthetic musks have been found in human breast milk and fatty tissues, and are ubiquitous in wastewater and rivers. Research by the Environmental Working Group has even found synthetic musks in the umbilical cord blood of newborn U.S. infants. Preliminary research suggests that musks may disrupt hormones and are toxic to aquatic life.
What You Can Do
Choose products with no added synthetic fragrance. Look for products without the word fragrance on the label, or choose products that use natural fragrance or essential oils. You can also use the Skin Deep advanced search to look for products with no added fragrance.
More Information
Report: "A Little Prettier" (2008)
Report: "Not Too Pretty" (2002)
Science: Phthalates
Skin Deep product search: Fragrance-free cosmetics
Skin Deep topic: Fragrance
Analysis: Scented Secrets
Research: Studies on the toxicity of fragrance cited in Pub Med